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Graduated Technique
A graduated cut means that the interior shows a progression of lengths, creating a beveled appearance.
1. Section the hair into six basic sections
2. Raise the client's chair to where the perimeter will be at chest level
3. Cut/Establish the guideline
-Cut sections 1 and 2 as you did for the one-length technique. The natural elevation in this area is 0°.
4. Cut sections 3&4
This is where you begin graduating the hair. Remember that you are performing a natural graduation, where theelevation is determined by the curve of the head.
-Position the client’s head upright.
-Drop basic section 3 and make a subsection that is approximately 1” thick
-Repeat for section 4, making sure that the subsections on each side are the same size.
-Determine the correct elevation:
•Place an end of the comb in the parting of the subsection you’re about to cut. Hold it in place with your thumb. The degree that the comb lifts away from the head is the correct elevation for cutting.
• Pick up a portion of the subsection at the center of
the back. Include a small portion of the guide from
underneath.
• Bring the hair up to the comb elevation.
• Hold the hair T to the subsection parting.
• While holding the hair at the comb elevation, recheck the elevation by placing the comb at the parting again, and then slide out the comb while maintainingthe elevation.