20. Long Round Layers on Curly Hair

start:

first position behind guest to make sections

make sure hair is damp/tangle free

(comb from hairline to ends to ensure natural curls are smooth)

make center part from hairline to apex, section away both sides

section away remaining hair behind front two sections

creating guideline:

create a 2" diagonal subsection from the center part to behind each ear

cutting the guideline:

stand in front, facing the guest in first position

pick up a 2" subsection of hair at the hairline (about 1" over each side of the center part)

pull the section towards you so it is parallel with the floor (this will make the shortest layer that will frame the face)

cut this section using the palm to palm technique (with your fingers mirroring the guide)

use the step body position to keep the section you're cutting in front of you as you continue along the front hairline (working towards the left first)

as the head curves towards the side of the face, over direct the hair slightly towards you to reach the previously cut hair

(repeat for side 2)

cutting the top and sides:

stand facing side 1

make a 2" subsection mirroring diagonal subsection (it will make a pie shape)

move to face the guest (using the side step motion)

elevate to 90 degrees and overdirect the section towards you

cut each 2" piece over the fingers, mirroring the the diagonal subsection

(elevating each section slightly more than the previous)

subsections will appear more vertical as you near the last piece

using the palm to palm hand position as you cut below the parietal ridge

alternate from side 1 to side 2 until reaching the vertical section behind the ear

cutting the back:

stand facing away from guest, with your hip to their ear

take 1" vertical subsection from apex to nape, elevate it to 90 degrees

cut over your fingers

continue making 1" vertical subsections, overdirecting each to previously cut piece

walk in a semi circle around the head to cut side 1

(repeat for side 2, but walk in a backwards semi circle to cut this side)

connecting the back:

stand behind your guest in first position

make a 1" horizontal subsections (3" wide) starting at the crown, stopping at the occipital bone

elevate to 90 degrees, and cut off point/edge to even hair

-blow-dry and style-

~info~

Shape: Round

Technique: Layering

Body position:

Step position- top and sides

First position- walking forward or backward in a semi circle to the center back (to cut the back)

Finger position:

-Palm-to-palm

-Over the fingers

Tension: Medium to light

Over-direction: Forward over-direction

Elevation: 90 degrees and above

Sectioning: 4

Subsections:

-vertical in the back

-diagonal at the top and sides

-pivoting at the ear