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28 Haircolor Natural Levels

To understand how hair color formulas react w/natural hair, a look at hair’s structure & natural color is important.

▪️Color is formed in cortex by melaocytes that produce 3 types of pigment (melanin):

1.)Eumelanin (granular melanin)

Natural black to red pigment is larger in size than diffused pigment, fewer pigment granules needed to color hair shaft, therefore eumelanin is more easily & quickly removed than pheomelanin

2.)Pheomelanin (diffused melanin)

Natural red - pale yellow is much smaller than eumelanin pigments.

There are many more yellow and red than black and brown pigments in a single shaft, making them more difficult to remove

Trichromes: sub-category to pheomelanin in natural sandy-red hair. Contain more red than yellow pigment, making these shades difficult to lighten to pale yellow.

3.)Mixed Melanin

Both types are present in 1 melanin granule

▪️Canities/nonpigmented hair:

-Described in percentages

-Can be resistant to color because it may have up to 24 layers of cuticle

▪️Hair at Scalp Area:

-“New Growth”

-Softer in texture

-Lifting in color occures 5-15x faster (heat from scalp affects product activation)

▪️Midlengths:

-Not affected by heat of scalp and are of different texture, absorb color less quickly

▪️Ends:

-More porous = less cuticle = absorb color faster

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