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21 Long Layer Technique
To be continued...
Section Hair and Cut One-Length or Graduated
1. Apply the six basic sections.
2. Drop sections 1 and 2, and cut them one-length.
3. Drop sections 3 and 4.
4. If the hair from these sections reaches the perimeter,
cut it either one-length or graduated, depending on howmuch weight you want. A one-length perimeter has
more weight than a graduated one.
5. Drop sections 5 and 6, and cut them either one-length or graduated if they reach the perimeter.
2. Cut a Front and Side Perimeter
Before applying layers, establish a front and side perimeter. The front perimeter is the guide for layering the top of the
head.
1. Create a safety section.
2. Cut a one-length or graduated front perimeter.
3. Cut a one-length or graduated side angle.
Cut the Interior Guide
1. Create an ear-to-ear parting to divide the front from the
back: Part the hair from the front of the right ear (where
the ear attaches to the head) across the top of the head
to the front of the left ear.
2. At the top of the head, create a 1ý vertical subsection
from the front hairline to the ear-to-ear parting. Take Vý from each side of the middle.
3. Stand on the client’s right.
4. Hold the subsection (or as much of it as you can control)
at 90°.
5. Drop all but a little of the safety section. What’s left of it
(the hair closest to the uncut hair) is your guide.
6. Cut the 1ý rectangular subsection:
• Elevate the subsection to 90°.
• Cut in a backward flowing angle. Position the fingers
holding the hair at an angle that goes from short to
long so that the scissors can follow the direction of
your fingers.
• Repeat until the entire subsection has been cut.