1. Section the Hair

1. Create a center part.

2. Create basic sections 5 and 6. All the hair above the parietal ridge should be isolated.

Diagonal Layers Cutting Procedure

👀📺🎬See DVD: Scene 3.2, Diagonal Layers

The diagonal layers technique, usually done on mid-length to short hair, minimizes weight at the sides while maintaining length at the parietal ridge. this layering pattern uses diagonal subsections.

To implement this cut, you do the following:

• Isolate and clip away sections 5 and 6.

• Create a guide.

• Layer the hair below sections 5 and 6.

• Establish the front perimeter.

• Cut the remaining hair, connecting sections 5 and 6 withpreviously cut hair.

• Layer the top using one of the layering options for the top of the head.

• Cross check the cut.

2. Cut the Hair Below Sections 5 and 6

1. Start on the client’s right side.

2. Apply a 1/2" diagonal subsection in front of the ear. The subsection should be parallel to the hairline.

3. Separate the remaining hair and clip it out of the way if necessary.

4. Using the fine teeth of the comb, position the hair T to the section.

5. Comb and hold the hair at 90°, T to the section. Hold withmedium and even tension.

‼️Note: To maintain weight in the side perimeter, you can cut the first two subsections at a lower elevation.

6. Cut the hair:

• Use primary scissors position.

• Cut to the desired length.

• As you cut, your scissors and fingers holding the hair are parallel to the parting/subsection.

• Cut from top to bottom if you’re right-handed and

bottom to top if you’re left-handed.

7. Comb the guide down to check to see how it falls. Adjust as necessary.

8. Pick up some of the guide and then the next 1/2" diagonal subsection, parallel to the first. Hold at 90° and cut to the guide. Repeat for the next 1/2" diagonal subsection.

❗️Hint: As you work around to the back of the head and nape, tilt the client’s head slightly to create a flatter surface to work

9. Pick up some of the previously cut hair to serve as your guide and a 1/2" diagonal subsection parallel to the first two. 💫This 4th parting extends down behind the ear and to the back hairline.

10. Hold the hair at 90° and cut to the guideline. Where thereis no guideline (below the ear), just continue the line.

11. Continue creating 1/2" to 1" diagonal subsections until you reach the center part. Notice that the hair at the bottom is past center.

12. Cross check the entire right side by combing in the opposite diagonal subsections.

13. Repeat steps 1–12 for the left side.

Diagonal Short Layer

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