Determining the Correct Heat

The temperature of the iron is crucial: too hot an iron can

damage hair; too cool an iron will not be effective.

The correct heat setting depends on several factors,

including the hair texture (whether it is fine or coarse) and

how brittle it is as a result of chemical treatment.

The following kinds of hair need less heat:

• Chemically colored hair

• Chemically lightened hair

• White hair

• Fine hair (children and younger clients)

The following kinds of hair need more heat:

• Coarse hair

• Hair with more texture or curl

Checking for the Correct Heat

To check if an iron is too hot, place an end wrap or piece of

white paper between the tong and barrel and hold it there

for several seconds. If the paper is scorched, turn down the

heat setting or hold the iron in a towel for a few seconds

and check it again.

You’ll know when an iron is too cool because the hair won’t respond the way you want.

Creating a Curl

With a thermal iron, it is most effective to create the curl

starting at the scalp and working to the end. This is a three-step process:

1. Form the base (also known as “rock in the base”).

2. Rotate the hair into the iron.

3. Clip or anchor to the base.

There are three kinds of curls

• Croquignole curls, performed on shorter hair, are

performed end to scalp (UNDER 5")

• Figure 6 curls, which are commonly created in short to

mid-length hair (5-13")

• Figure 8 curls, which are commonly created in long hair (13" & longer)

All three kinds of curls use the same procedure for forming the base. The curling part of the process is slightly different for each type of curl, however.

Forming the Base

As with all curls, those you create with a thermal iron

should have a strong base:

1. Make sure that the hair is 100% dry.

2. While holding the iron, pick up a section of the hair usingthe little finger of your dominant hand or section with a

comb. The size of the base for a thermal iron curl is the

diameter of the barrel and about 2V" long.

3. Place hair in comb (teeth up) at the desired elevation.

Remember that the higher the elevation, the stronger

the base and the less mobile the hair.

4. Apply the iron as close to the scalp as possible, taking

care not to touch the scalp.

5. Keeping the tong of the iron slightly open, and using the

comb to keep the hair in the iron, rotate the iron toward

you gently. Closing the iron will create a “crimp” across

the base of the curl. Make sure to keep the hair at the

desired elevation as you work.

6. Without letting go of the hair, proceed to creating the

curl.

14.b

Thermal Iron Curl Styling