Graduated Angle Technique

Graduated Angle Cutting Procedure

👀🎬📺See DVD: Scene 2.2, Graduated Angle

In this variation, an angle is added to the side perimeter. By

adding a graduated angle, you can add softness to the cut.

The angle of the cut can vary from just a subtle angle off

the side perimeter to a sharp angle connecting to a short

front perimeter.

1. Graduate the Front Perimeter

‼️Note: The front perimeter is also known as bangs or

fringe if it is above the bridge of the nose.

You can cut a graduated angle on a one-length, graduated,

or layered technique cut.

1. Create a safety section. (See Lesson 3: Sectioning in this

module, if necessary.) Remember that the width of the

triangle in the safety section determines the size of the

front perimeter.

2. Using secondary scissors position and holding the hair in

gravity, cut a front perimeter to the length desired.

Note: If you are cutting a short front perimeter (shorter than the bridge of the nose), the perimeter will have

less weight due to the graduation. Therefore, determinethe length accordingly.

3. Find the comb elevation for the front perimeter by

holding the comb at the point where the lines of the

triangle meet.

4. Bring the front perimeter hair up to the comb elevation

and cut the hair to the guide (the bottommost hair).

2. Graduate the Side Perimeters

1. Stand on the side that you’re graduating.

2. Comb the rest of the hair in the side perimeter (the hair in front of the diagonal parting) forward T to the section.

3. Determine the comb elevation.

4. Carefully determine the location of points A and B. It is crucial that you cut from Point A without cutting any length at Point A. If you cut into the length of Point A, the hair will appear shorter than desirable when viewed from the front.

5. On the right side, hold the hair in your fingers and use primary scissors position to cut from Point A to Point B.

6. To continue, create a 1/4" subsection parallel to the diagonal side parting.

7. Determine the comb elevation.

8. Pick up a part of the subsection and some of the previously cut guide.

9. Recheck the elevation, bring the hair up to the comb, and then slide out the comb.

10. Check for the guide, and then cut to it.

11. Continue subsectioning and graduating the side until no more hair reaches the guide. Usually, basic sections 1 and 2 will not reach the guide.

12. Repeat the graduation process on the other side.

‼️Note: If you want to maintain length toward the back,

continue subsections into the back, combing forward to the guide without elevation.

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