Pincurling: Flat / Stand-up (continued)

Circular Pattern (Pompadour)

Circular shapings can be used to create waves that fall in a spherical motion. This technique is often used in the crown area, but may be applied anywhere on the head. The set

described here is often called a pompadour.

Circular shapings are sometimes called arcs, pivots, or

radials.

To create this set, use the same procedure as for the basic

pin curl set, except for the following:

• Form an arc shaping across the front hairline.

• The pivot point of the front hairline’s shaping originatesfrom the “widow’s peak”; subsequent shapings fan out

from there.

• Begin at the open end.

• The pick-up lines follow the circular shapings.

Volume/Stand-Up Pin Curls

Volume pin curls, or stand-up pin curls, produce strong

height and volume in a finished style. These curls are often

used in the crown, where most clients prefer volume or lift.

This type of setting is similar to roller setting; in effect, you

are setting the hair on “invisible rollers.”

When creating volume pin curls, keep the following in mind:

The base shape can be square, rectangular or (especially

at the hairline) triangular. Triangular bases at the hairline camouflage separations or splits in the comb-out. They

look like this:

• Depending on the desired results, the curls may be

formed at 135°, 90°, 45°, or 0°, as with any volume curl.

• Create curls with an open center; the size of the center

depends on the desired result. Clip each curl at the scalpwith a clippie on the scalp, with the direction of the curl standing up and away from the scalp.

• This technique is most appropriate for straight hair or

hair with moderate curl. Tight curls or hair with a high

degree of texture should be set on rollers for a smooth

result.

• The advantage of volume pin curls over roller curls is

decreased drying time.

• Flat pin curls are often used on the sides of the head in

combination with volume curls.

12.B